Machine and method for stitching shoe uppers



June 9, 1931. J. P. WEIS 1,309,462

MACHINE AND METHOD FOR STITCHING SHOE UPPERS Filed Dec. 2. 1929 a Sheets-Sheet 1 June'9, 1931. J. P. WEIS MACHINE AND METHOD FOR ST-ITCHING SHOE UPPERS Filed Dec. 2. 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 mmw QmN Nmw June 9, 1931. J. P. WEIS MACHINE AND METHOD FOR STITCHING SHOE UPPERS Filed Dec. 2. 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet June 1931.

' Filed Dec. 2. 1929 s Sheets-Sheet 4 June 9, 1931. J. P. WEIS MACHINE AND METHOD FOR STITCHING SHOE UPPERS Filed Dec. 2. 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 m I a June 9, 1931. J. P. WElS MACHINE AND METHOD FOR STITCHING SHOE UPPERS Filed Dec. 2. 1929 6 Sheets-Sheet QNITED STA J WEIS, OF NYACK, NEW YORK, ASSIG'NOR TO METROPOLITAN SEWING Patented June 9, 1931 T-ES MACHINE 1 CORPORATION OF NYACK, NEW YORK; CORPORATION 01E DELAWARE MACHINE AND METHOD r0 Application filed December This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly to an improved machine. and method for making multiple seams with a single handling of the work by the operator in various articles of'manufacture, such as shoes, sporting goods articles made from leather, canvas, and other-materials, and other wearing apparel, requiring a strong fiat scam, the present improved machine and method being particularly adapted for the sewing of taped shoe uppers or quarters and is an improvement on the machine and method shownand describedinmy'contemporaneously pending applications, Serial No. 319,072, filed November 13, 1928, and Serial No. 377,682, filed July 12, 1929, wherein I made use of a puller feed mechanism interposed between the two sewing mechanisms for feeding the work and flattening the seams prior to the second stitching operation of covering the seam with a tape. The present organization? of' machine is such that the sewing me'cha nisms are so, organized with relation to each other that one sewing mechanism is operated; at a different speed from that of the other, thereby to create the necessary tension on the work and keep it tautso as to insure the proper pulling of the work from one stitch ing mechanism to the other as it is fed through the machine, entirely eliminating the puller feed mechanism referred to,-with numerous resultant advantages.

'A further object of the invention is the PIO-r vision of an improved machine and method for first stitching the superposed parts or' chine and method willhave the numerous plies of the article with a single line of stitches, then overturning one of the plies of the article, subsequently opening the stitched seam margins and flattening the same, and then stitchingthe same or applying a rein:- forcing tape in an expeditious manner by parallel rows of stitches'all with one handlingof the article by'the operator.-

Another object [of theinvention is the provision of "an improvedmachine and method wherein a pair of sewing mechanisms are located in tandem relation one behind the other and driven from the same source of power and under the controlof a single operator, one

effective to stitch'superposed-plies of an artia srrrcnmo snot: UPPERS 2, 1929. Serial No. 411,012.

do with a single line of stitches andthe other effective to stitch the flattened seam marguns, in combination with improved means co-operating with said mechanisms for over-'- second stitching positions -to accommodate different thicknesses of materialfed through t elr'nachine.

Another object of the invention is the pro-- vision; of simplified improved ply overturning means and a simplified andimproved means for separatingland flattening the seam margins. a r

Another object of the invention is the profor feedingand guiding severalopliesof work to a pair of sewing mechanisms arranged in tandem relation. whereby. the Work can be stitched with the plies superposed in a horizontal p sition and finally stitched with the plies sep rated and lying flat,in opposite'div rections with a; stay str ip' applie djto the ffiattened seam when desired, and which ma;

vantages hereinafter referred to, among which is the advantage that the opening and spreading of tening thereof take place entirely'subsequent to the partial overturning of one of the plies the seam margins and theflat ofvwork instead of, as heretofore in my prior improvement, having the seam margins diverted or opened before theoverturning of a ply of work, whereby machine is very much speeded up, with the resultant advantage of greater production in a given time while the handling of the work is also verymuch facilitated.

In the drawings accompanying and forming a part of this specification-' the operation of the 1 75 -vision of an improved machine and method Figure 1 is a front end view of this improved machine illustrating the manner in which the two sewing mechanisms are co-operatively mounted for automatically controlling the work during its passage from one to the other for the completion of two separate and distinct stitching operations with one handling of the work;

Fig. 2 is a top plan view of Fig. 1 and illustrates more clearly the overturning and guide controlling means for controlling the work from the first to the second stitching position andalso illustrates the means for guiding the covering tape into position for the second stitching operation to cover the bottom of the seam;

Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the seam guide for guiding, opening, and'flattening the seam as the work passes from the first to the second stitching position;

Fig. 4 is a bottom View of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a cross-sectional view taken on line 55, Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view taken on the line 66, Fig. 3;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view taken on the line 7-7, Fig 3;

Fig. 8 is a perspective view illustrating the three steps in the passage of the work from the first to the second stitching position and the manner in which the overturning or flopover means controls work;

Fig. 9 is a perspective detail view of the driving mechanism for the sewing mechanisms;

Fig. 10 is a detail view of the throat plate and feed dogs and a portion of the seam cov ering tape;

Fig. 11 is a top plan view of the presser foot, top feed work guide, and the se arating member of the work overturningor op-over controlling means; i

- Figs. 12 to 16, inclusive, are views illustrating the manner in which the first seam is formed in two plies or pieces of work and the position thereof as it passes from the first to the second stitching mechanism;

Fig. 17 is a perspective view of the first 66 work guide and the separating member for the work;

F ig. 18illustrates three shoe uppers of can vas shoes, in which A represents one shoe upper with the two plies stitched together by a single line of stitches, B represents another shoe upper with the two plies opened with the seam margins first at right angles to the plane tion; and

of the plies and then initially diverted, spread, and flattened, and C represents another shoe upper with the seam margins final- 7 1y pressed down with a covering tape stitched thereto;

Fig. 19 illustrates in section the manner in WhlCh the opposing edges of the seam margins are spread apart, for the flattening operation and arrangement of parts which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, since the invention is capable of other embodiments and that the phraseology which I employ is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

As hereinbefore stated, in myprior machine I made use of a puller feed mechanism interposed between the two sewing mechanisms for feeding the work and flattening the seams prior to the second stitching operation of covering the seam with a tape. In the present improvement this pulleri feed mechanism is eliminated and the machine very much simplified in various respects to facilitate the handling of the work, whereby increased production is the result as well as oflering other advantages with respect to making heel seams on certain kinds of shoes, the shape of which has considerable curvature along the line of this heel seam. On such work it is desirable to have the two sewing mechanisms closer together so that a better control of the work is obtained.

I have also eliminated the chain drive used for transmitting power from one sewing mechanism to the other for synchronizing the needle and feed movements of the respective machines, since in the present improved machine this synchronized movenfent is not essential.

This improved machine is operated by two drive belts from a source of power under the table, and the ratio of speed of the two sewing mechanisms is controlled by the selection of the proper diameter of belt pulleys that transmit power to the machine with respect to the relative length of stitch or stroke of the feed of the first and; second sewing mechanisms. In certain factories the specifications for themanufacture-of heel seams require eight stitches to the inch to be made by one sewing machine run by one operator 'and twelve stitches to the inch by another machine run by another operator. This is obtained in the present improvement, in which both sewing mechanisms are controlled by a single operator, by using the proper diameter of belt wheels or pulleys and regulating the stroke of-the feed of the respective sewing mechanisms-with the result that the rear sewing mechanism has a speed faster. than the. front one, which results in creating a tension on the. work so as to pull tightly thereon as it gfeeds throughthe first sewing mechanism, thus maintainingthe work taut. This also permits the use of a longer stitch in the the second sewing mechanism, and permits the use of eight stitches to the inch in the front sewing mechanism and twelve to the inch in the rear one. This double belt drive \is a decided improvement, therefore, for it eliminates the chain and sprockets entirely of my prior machine. A hand wheel can be provided on one machine for the usual purpose, While a top feed operating means is provided on the other machine in place of the sprockets and chain.

By providing the first sewing mechanism witha topfeed mechanism, a decided advantage is also obtained as it facilitates the feeding of the work, enabling the top and bottom plies to feed in unison, making an even start and finish, and overcoming the tendency of the top ply shifting ba ckward because of the retarding frictional action of the presser foot. With the top feed the superimposed layers of work are clamped together. during each stitch and feed movement and, therefore, the pressure on the presser foot can be relieved so that it merely acts as a stripper to prevent the work from lifting with the needle, and as the contact surface of the top feed is directly in line and opposite to the needle, the feeding around irregular curved portions of the work is accomplished with ease. This also tends to increase production. With this improvedmachine and method, a single operator can turn out a great quantity of pairs of shoes per day at considerably less expense.

By eliminating the puller feed, not only is the expense thereof eliminated, but also its maintenance and consumption of power, while the threading, adj ustlng, and oiling of the second sewingmechanism are much simplified and also enables it to be brought closer to the operator, improving the visibility and* the general handling of thework.

Another feature of the present improvement is the elimination of the numerous parts of the initial controlling means for guiding and separating the seam margins prior to the overturning of one of the plies, as shown in Figs. 16 to 18 of the prior application. In place thereof I make use of a simple form of edge guide located adjacent to the needle, so that curved lines of stitching may be produced, spaced uniformly with the edge of the work, regardless of its shape, with the greatest ofiease on the part 5f the operator, in guiding the work to the needle of the first stitching mechanism.

' In the present improved machine the seam made by the first sewing mechanism. is not initially opened or spread apart along the marginal edges of the seam until the stitched articles have reached a position of approximately three inches in advance of the stitch ing position of the second sewing mechanism and until the ply has been partially overturned. The advantage of this is that friction on the work, as it feeds f om one mechanism to the other, is eliminat d, whilb a decided advantage isobtained in the handling of curved articles where the seam, instead of extending in a straight line, has a waved formation,-as, for instance, on certain heel seams of ladiesfishoes.

Another improvement of the present invention is a seam guiding and opening means so arranged as to compensate for different thicknesses of materials. In the regular manufacture of canvas shoes and the like, the thicknesses or weights of fabrics vary,some fabrics being threetimes thicker than others, de-

pending upon the class of the shoe. Many of' the shoes used for sport wear, athletics,

'etc., are constructed of much heavier matespace for adjusting certain members to the 10!) vertical seam portions of the work, while other members thereof will yield vertically to accommodate different thicknesses of thehorizontal portions of the work,'certain of the members being so flexibly formed that they will yield to compensate for double thicknesses of the work where the seams are folded along the marginal stitched edges back upon themselves prior to the stitching thereon of the covering tape. Other means is also provided to accurately centralize the vertical portion of the work forming the seam, prior to the spreading and opening OPQIfilZlOIl in advance of the second stitcher and which will accurately split the two plies apart, re-

gardless of their thickness, as the articles feed as they feed from the supply to the sewing,

machines, to act as detectors for knots or weaknesses in the threads. This overcomes faulty work in that the operator can remove the faulty portion of thread before it reaches the needles and also a signal device for acting upon the covering tape to signal the operator prior to failure of the tape so that no work is stitched without a tape being applied to cover the seams. Any of the well-known signa-ls may be provided for the threads or tape for the purpose described.

The location of the tape supply is also important, as the operator must have aclear view of it as the work proceeds through the machine, to replenish the supply before it is exhausted, and thereby overcome defective work.

A sewing mechanism 1 having a needle and co-operating stitch forming means to make the first row of stitches and a sewing mechanism 2 having a pair of needles and co-operating stitch forming means to make two lines or rows of Stitches are arranged in tandem relation, one in the rear of the other,- on a.

suitable table 131 and each may have the Metropolitan top and bottom rotary shaft construction, although it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to any particular kind of sewing mechanism. As they are substantially the same as those described in my co-pending applications, a detailed description thereof is not deemed necessary.

The front sewing mechanism 1 is operated by a driving belt 3 (see Fig. 9), while the rear sewing mechanism 2 is operated by a driving belt 4. Both of these belts pass around a double-grooved pulley 5 carried by a motor-driven shaft having a suitable clutch 6 which may be coupled and uncoupled by a lever 7 connected by a chain 8 with a foot treadle 9. The operator thus has complete control of the power and speed from the electric motor 10 for starting and stopping the machine, as well as regulating the rate of speed or R. P. M. Each sewing mechanism is provided with a four-motion feed mechanism 11 or 12 operated from the bottom shafts 11 or 12 and with looper mechanisms 13 and 14 and needle operating mechanisms 15 and 16 which are driven from the top shafts '15 and 16 in the usual way. A top feed mechanism is also employed with the sewing mechanism 1 and consists of an adjustable crank 17 carried by the top shaft 15' and a connecting rod 18 imparting motion to a lever 19 for rocking a shaft 20 carried by bearings 21 and22-(see Fig. 2)

of the top arm of the sewing mechanism 1. The forward end of this rock shaft 20 carries an arm 23 having a link 24 pivotally connecting it with a part 25 of a top feed lever 26. The lower end of this lever 25 has attached to it, at 27, a yoke member 28 (see Fig. 11) of a top feed 29. This top feed reaches around the shank 30 of a presser foot 31 carried by the presser bar 32 in the usual manner. The top feed fits closely the shank of the presser foot and is thus guided agalnst lateral movement as one part 33 of the feed operates on one side of the presser foot shank 30 while another part 28 operates on the opposite side of the foot. The presser foot 31 is provided with a needle opening 34 and a feed opening 35. The feed teeth 36 ofthe top feed reach down through this opening adjacent to the needle to feed the work. The upand down motion of the top feed is obtained by a connection 37 (see Fig. 9) forming part of the crank pin 38 of the needle driving means of the sewing mechanism 1. This crank has a pin 39 offset sufficiently from the axis of the top shaft 15 and in timed relation to give the proper vertical rise and fall to the top feed through the medium of the spring barrel construction generally indicated at 40. This spring barrel is provided with a plunger 41 (see Figs. 1 and 9) pivotally connected at 42 to a rocking lever 43 which is pivotally secured at 44 to the top of a presser bar 45. This presser bar thus has vertical reciprocating motion in bearings in the top arm of the sewing mechanism 1 and is held against the work by suitable spring pressure. A presser foot lifting means 46 isprovided (see Fig.1). The presser foot mechanism of the sewing mechanism 2 is generally indicated by 47.

To control the work as it feeds to the first stitching mechanism 1, I make use of a seam guide 48 (see Figs. 2, 8, 11 and 17) adjustably secured at 49 to the cloth or slide plate.

This guide is located directly in line with and adjacent to the needle to facilitate feeding around curved forms of work. Located at the left and in line with the front of the presser foot 31 is the forwardly-projecting end of the work or ply separating member 50 located and supported above the cloth plate of the machine, thus providing a space 51 for the free passage of the bottom ply of work. The top ply ofwork passes up over the inclined edge 52 of this member 50 as it feeds through the machine. This inclined edge 52 reaches its full height at 53 and is adjustably supported at 54 to an extending member 55, forming a face plate 56 for the end of the top arm of the sewing mechanism 2. This face plate is secured, as at 57. The forwardly-projecting end of this member 55 terminates at 58 (see Figs-1, 2 and 8). The member 50 with its inclined verticalwall 52 is provided with a laterally-extending flange 59 (see Figs. 1 and 8) to give it rigidity and v attached at 62 to the vertical wall 52 of the member 50 and at 63 to a similar guide member 64 also connected, as at 65, to-"the vertical wall 52 and at 66 to the face plate 56. The

top ply of the work 108 (see Fig. 8) is first lifted upward by the inclined edge 52 and then, as it feeds along, comes in contact with the guide member 64 until it reaches the position indicated at 68. At this time the guide member 61, extending more to the right exerts pressure against the top ply of work, causing it to overturn or flop over, which is assisted by the work finally coming in conblade guiding member 76. Also "attached to the plate 56, at 77 is a similar supporting member 78' spaced from the supporting member 74 (see Figs.,1 and 8) having its lower end adjustably secured to the vertical blade 76. The forward end of'this-blade is rounded at 80 and has a wire 81 attached to the top edge. This wire is bowed laterally and is also secured at 65 to the vertical wall 52 so that it is properly supported. This blade 76 is provided at its rear end-with laterallyprojecting curved members 82 that act upon the top surfaces of the work to flatten it out. The end of this blade is bevelled, as at 83, to fit closely to the fin 84 of the presser foot 85 of the rear sewing mechanism 2. This fin 84 (see Fig.1) guides the top portion of the seam 86 (see Fig. 8) to assist in centrally spacing the seam with the two needles 87 of the rear stitching mechanism 16.

From the foregoing it willbe seen (see I Fig. 8) that the first article, indicated by A,

has its edges a controlled by the guide 48. The'stitch line of'the first sewing mechanism is spaced from the edge about three-eighths of an inch or less, and the chain of stitches a connects article A with the second article B which has the top ply partly flopped over with the seam margin tipped downward to a verticalposition, as indicated by I). These seam margins are separated about midway between the two supports 74 and 78 by means of a seam opener hereinafter described and located directly under the blade 76 at that position. Another chain of stitches 7) con- I nects article with article C to which the. stay tape is applied to thebottom ofthe seam by the rear sewing mechanism as shown in Fig. 18.

opening means (see Figs. 3 to 7) consists of The flexible seam" guide controlling and a base plate 88 of rectangular form having an outline such as that shown at 88a, 88?), 880

- and 88d. This plate is made of thin sheet steel and is provided with an, opening such as that shown by the marginal lines 89, 89a,

8912, 890, and an opening 890Z providing a passage for the seam of the work. The forward ends of this plate are provided with elongated slots 90 for the attachment of the plate, by screws 91, to the cloth plate of the rear sewing mechanism 2. The front end of this plate overhangs andrests on the cloth plate of the'sewing mechanism 1 (see Fig.

2). Pivotally and adjustably' secured to this plate, at 92, at one side of the opening 89d, is a spring steel work guiding member 93 which has a curled or bent end 94 to receive the'work as it feeds through the machine. This curled end controls and guides the flopped-over pl'y of work as it passes from one sewing mechanism to the other. The top edge 95 of this member 93 is gradually bent or curved to an almost horizontal position from 95a to 95?). A similar guiding member 97 is located at the opposite" side of the opening 89d and has a parallel edge 96a, 9612. This member is pivoted at 98 to the plate 88 and shaped almost identically like the guide member 93, except for the extending end 94. Rearwardly of the pivots 92 and 98 are shoulder screws 99, one for each member, permitting free movement of the guide members 93 and 97, each of which is provided with a pin 100, extending" down through the plate 88 and having connectedthereto, underneath the plate, a tension spring 101 which automatically draws the two guide members 93 and 97 towards each other to bring the parallel edges 95a and 96a together and permit them to automatically open or spread apart to give the proper space between these guid ing edges for different thicknesses of the work as it passes therebetween.

The forwardly-projecting ends of the members 93 and 97 are narrowed up, as at 102, to make them vertically flexible where they overlap the extending portion 103 of the plate 88. This extending end 103 of the plate 88 thus holds-the flattened diver ing edges of the work in a fiat position (see Fig. 6) as they emerge from the end 104 thereof -to feed onto the covering tape 105.. Fig. 6

shows the flexible ends 102 of the guide memhere 93 and 97 and a portion of the rear end or extension 103 of the plate 88 and illus- .trates the manner in which theseam 106 with the seam margins 109 and 110 projecting in the directionofand parallel with the top and bottom plies of work;

Attached to the bottom of the plate 88 by screws 111 is a trough-shaped bracket 112 (see Figs. 5 and 7) for the reception of two sliding jaws 113 and 114 which fit onto and are properly guided by the bracket 112. They are secured thereto by shoulder screws 115 and friction washers for smooth action. The jaws 11'3 and 114 have downwardly-projecti-ngprojections 116, working in an open ing of the bracket 112 (see Fig. 4) which are tapped to receive the threaded portion ofa; right andleft screw 117. This screw is provided with a collar 118 fitting against the inner side of a face plate 119 which forms a face of this bracket is a collar 120secured to the screw 117. A springformed crank arm 121 is secured to the collar and has a handle 122 which acts as an indicator. The face plate 119 is shown with three fixed stations 123 (see Fig. 1) to which this indicator handle can be shifted. By turning the handle 122 to shift it to any of these stations, the screw 117 is turned and thus regulates the space between the sliding jaws 113 and 114 (see Fig. 7) equal to the thickness of the work being stitched. The three spaces, indicated b the stations 123, will thus accommodate tli ree different thicknesses of work, but this face plate can have any number of stations to suit any number of thicknesses of work. The pitch of the screw-thread 117 may be such that a slight turning of the screw through a portion of itsirevolution would control the space between the jaws as desired.

A seam opening plough or guide 127 is attached by screws 126 to the bracket 112 and is located between the jaws 113 and 114 to the rear of the vertical plane of the projections 116 of the jaws, and the vertical edge of this plough is accurately located between the guide jaws 113 and 114 and is soshaped as 'to flare the seam margin edges 109-110 of the work in the manner shown in Figs. 5 and 6.

Attached to the top of the sliding (jaws 113114, to travel with the adjustable aws, are plates 128 (see Fig. 5) these plates having curved projecting portions 129 that also help to control the seams and are likewise adjusted by the jaw screw 117 to the difl'erent thicknesses of work. These-plates have flared portions 130 (see Fi s. 3 and 1).

Theframewor s of the two sewing mechanisms 1 and 2 are connected by a metal brace' or strap 131' (Fig. 2), extending from one to the other. On some sizes of shoes,fthis brace is not necessary, but on the larger sizes it provides a support to prevent a portion of the shoe upper from dropping down between the machinesand interfering with the tape 105 (see Fig. 2).

A tape reel 105a (see Fig. 2) is located in proper position and is provided with a suitable signal, as at 105?). A tape guide 1050 (see Fig. 1) for effecting aright-angle turn is secured to the table and the tape passes up through a slot in the throat plate or over the end thereof.

In the operation of this improved machine scribed, and the overturning of the ply carries the seam margins from a horizontal position into a substantially vertical position at right angles to the plane of the plies. When the seam margin-s have been carried into this vertical position, they pass through the flexible controlling means which, as before stated, is adjustable for various thicknesses of work, Where the seam margins are separated or diverted and thus spread apart and flattened into substantial parallelism with the plies of work and are maintained, in this condition until they reach the second sewing mechanism, prior to which a stay tape is fed to the flattened seam margins which, together with this tape, are then stitched by the second sewing mechanism with parallel rows of stitches.

By means of the improvements the present machine is very much simplified as compared with the machine of my prior applications, much more easily handled, the handling of the work by the operator facilitated, and the speed of the machine materially increasedwith the resultant increase of production, which is a very material factor.

It is to be understood that by describing in detail herein any particular form, structure, or arrangement, it is not intended to limit the invention beyond the terms of the 1 several claims or the requirements ofthe prior art.

Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described a way of constructing and using the same, although without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it-may be made or all of the modes of its use, I claim:

1. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposedplies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply with its inside outside, means located in position to open the seam margins subsequent to the starting of the overturning of one of the plies, and means for stitching the opened seam marglns.

2. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply with its inside outside, means for initially opening, spreading, and flattening the seam margins of the stitched plies and located in position to operate subsequent to the starting of the overturning of one of the plies, and means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

3. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of 81311301168, means for overturning a ply of quently stitching the seam,

material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply with its inside outside, means for initially opening, spreading, and flattening the seam margins of the stitched plies and located in position to operate subsequent to the starting of the overturning of one of the plies, means for feeding a tape tothe flattened seam margins, and means for stitching the tape to the seam marginsand plies with parallel rows of stitches.

4:. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a p'ly of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, means for subseand adjustable means between said stitching means for gaiiding and controlling" the material and a J nesses of material. Y

5. In a machine for sewing multiple I seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturn'ing a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, means for subsequently stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, and adjustable means between said stitching means for guiding andcontrolling the material and adjustable to compensate for different thicknesses of material.

6. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, means for subsequently stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, adjustable means between said stitching means for guiding and controlling the material and adjustable to compensate for different thicknesses of material, and means for feeding a tape to the seam margins prior to the final stitching thereof and simultaneously with the first stitching of a simil ar succeeding article.

7. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for guiding the edges of the seam margins during such stitching operation, means for overturning a ply of material and throwing it into a direction opposite to its companion ply with the inside outside, means for separating the seam margins subsequent to the starting of the overturning of the ply, means for flattening the same, and

means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

8. In a machine for. sewing -mriltiple seams, the combination of a pair. of sewing mechanisms arranged in tandem relation, one effect ve to stitch superposed plies of maustable-to compensate for different thick terial with a row of stitches and the other effective to stitch the seam margins with another row of stitches, means for driving said sewing mechanisms at different ratios of speed, and means located between said sewing mechanisms for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply.

' 9. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms arranged in tandem relation, one effective to stitch superposed plies of material with a row of stitches and the other effective to stitch the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, means for driving said sewing mechanisms at different ratios of speed, means located between said sewing mechanisms for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, and means for feeding a tape to the seam margins prior to the second stitching operatibn.

10. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms arranged in tandem relation and each having a feeding mechanism, one effective to stitch superposed plies of material with a row of stitches and the other efiective to stitch the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, means for driving the rear sewing mechanism at a greater speed than the front sewing mechanism thereby to impart tension to the work, hold it taut, and pull the same through the machine, and means for overturning intermediate the stitching operations a ply of material and throwing, it in a direction opposite to its companion ply.

11. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms arranged in tandem relation, one effective to stitch superposed plies of material with a row of stitches and the other having feeding mechanismand effective to stitch the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, means for driving the rear sewing mechanism at a greater speed than the front sewing mechanism thereby to nnpart tension l each having a feeding mechanism, one efiective to stitch superposed plies of material with a row of stitches and the other effective to stitch the seam marginswith parallel rows of stitches, means for driving the rear sewing mechanism at a greater speed than the front sewing mechanism thereby to impart tension to the work, hold it taut, and pull the same through the machine, means for overturning intermediate the stitchingoperation a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, means effective to divert the seam margins in opposite directions and flatten the same after the starting of the overturning of a ply of material, and

means for feeding a tape to the diverted and flattened seam margins prior to the stitching thereof with parallel rows of stitches.

13. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms located in tandem relation, one having a single needle and the other a plurality of needles, means for driving saidsewing mechanisms, the rear one' at a greater speed than the front one, whereby the front sewing mechanism is operative to stitch superposed plies of material with a row of stitches and the rearsewing mechanism is effective to stitch the work with parallel rows of stitches with a greater number of stitches to the inch than the front sewing mechanism, means" for overturning aply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and located intermediate said stitching mechanisms, and means for diverting the seam margins, spreading, and flattening the same prior to the second stltching operation. V

14;. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding horizontally located superposed plies of material in a horizontal directiommeansfor stitching the horizontally-located plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material to throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply of material and locate its seam margins vertically to the plane of the work plies, means for diverting the seam margins, spreading, and flattening the same subsequent to the starting of the overturning of one of the plies of material and including adjustable guiding means for accommodating different thicknesses' of work, means for feeding the work with its spread seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, and means for operating the second stitchin means at a greater speed than the first stitching mechanism thereby to impart tension to the work, hold it taut, and pull it from the first stitching mechanism.

15. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with airow of stitches, means for feeding the material with its spread seam margins, means for overturning a ply of material to throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply of material, means for diverting the seam margins, spreading, and flattening the same, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, and'means for operating the second stitching means at a greater speed than the first stitching means whereby the work will be placed under tension, maintained taut, and pulled through the machine by the second stitching mechanism.

16. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding superposed plies of material, means for stitching the plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material to throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply of material, means for diverting the seam margins, spreading, and flattening the same, means for feeding the material with its spread seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, means for operating the second stitching means at a greater speed than the first stitching means whereby the work will be placed under tension, maintained taut, and pulled through the machine by the second stitching mechanism, and means for feeding a tape to the seam margins. prior to the second stitching operation. 17 In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means or feeding horizontally located superposed plies 'of material in a horizontal direction, means for stitching the horizontally-located plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material to throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and simultaneously positioning the seam margins substantially at right angles and vertically to the plane of the plies, means for diverting the seam margins, spreading, and flattening the same into parallelism with the plies of work, and means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

18. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding horizontally located superposed plies of material in a horizontal direction, means for stitching the horizontally-located plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material to throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and simultaneously Y positioning the seam margins substantially at right angles and vertlcally to the plane of the plies, means for diverting the seam margins, spreading, and flattening the same into parallelism with the plies of work, means for stitching the'seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, and

means for feeding a tape to the seam margins prior to. the final stitchlng thereof.

- 19. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consists in stitching two superposed plies of material, then overturning a ply thereof, then initially diverting, spreading, and flattening the seam margins subsequent to the starting of the overturning of the ply, and then while the first stitching is proceeding of a succeeding similar article, stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

20. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consists in stitching twosuperposed plies of material, then while such stitching is proceeding simultaneously and gradually separating the plies from the leading end thereof and overturning a ply thereof, then initially diverting, spreading, and flattening the seam margins subsequent to the starting of the overturning of the ply, then applying a stay strip to the flattened seam, and then stitchin the seam margins with parallel rows of StltCllGS while the first stitching is proceeding of a succeeding similar article.

21. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms, one effective to stitch superposed plies of material with a row of stitches and having a top feeding mechanism, and the other also having feeding mechanism effective to stitch the seam margins with another row of stitches, means for driving said sewing mechanisms. and means located 7 between said sewing mechanisms for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply with its inside outside and prior to the opening of the seam margins.

22. In a" machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms, one effective to stitch superposed plies of materialwith a row of stitches andhaving a top feeding mechanism, and the other also having feeding mechanism eifective to stitch the seam margins with another row of stitches, means for driving said sewing mechanisms at difleren-t ratios of speed, and means located between said sewmechanisms for overturning a ply of material and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, with its inside outside.

In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for overturning a ply of material prior to the opening of'the seam margins and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply, with the inside outside, means for subsequently stitching the seam, and yielding means between said stitching means and yieldable to compensate for difi'erent thicknesses of material.

24 In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a row of stitches, means for controlling the material to the first stitching mechanism, means for overturning a ply of material prior to the opening of the seam margins and throwing it in a direction opposite to its companion ply with its inside outside, and means for again stitching the seam.

25. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms located one behind the other and means therebetween for overturning a plyof material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and comprising means for separating the unstitched portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturnmg the same including a plurality of. laterally located members.

26. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms located one behind'the Other and means therebetween for overturning a ply of material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and comprising means for separating the unstitched portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturning the same including a plurality of laterally located members of wire formation.

27. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms located one behind the other and means therebetween for overturning a ply of material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and comprising means for separating the unstitched portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturning the same comprising a member having an inclined vertically located edge and a plurality of laterally located bent members for assisting in the overturning of the ply.

28. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms located one behind the other and means therebetween for overturning a ply of material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and comprising means for separating the unstit checl, portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturning the same comprising a member having an inclined vertically located edge and a plurality of laterlift ally bent members connected with said mem M her at the forward ends thereof for assisting in overturning the ply.

29. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms located one behind the other and means therebetween for overturning a ply of material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite to its companion ply and comprising means for separating the unstitche-d portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturning the same comprising a member having an 1nclined vertically located edge and a plurality of difierently bent members connected at the forward ends thereof with said member for assisting in overturning the ply..

30. In a machine for sewing multiple mechanisms located one behind the other and means therebetween for overturning a ply of material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite'to its companion ply and comprising means for separaing the un stitched portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturning the same comprising a member having an inclined vertically located edge and a plurality of membersconnected with said member, one curved upwardly from said member and others curved laterally therefrom for assisting in overturning the ply.

31. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of sewin mechanisms located one behind the other an means therebetween for overturning a ply of material thereby to reverse it and throw it in a direction opposite to its'companion ply and comprising means for separating the unstitched portion of the plies and gradually raising the ply and overturning the same comprising a member having an inclined vertically located edge and a plurality of wire formed curved members, curved in different directions relatively to said member for assisting in overturning the ply.

Signed at Nyack, county of Rockland and State of New York, this 29th day of Nov.

JOHN P. W'EIS. 

